South of France road trip: A two-week itinerary

The purple fields of lavender, the heart and soul of Provence, are a regular sight on this road trip itinerary through the southern reaches of France. As the premier fruit-growing region in France, the agricultural land of Provence is covered in orchards growing such things as apples, pears, figs and stone fruit. You’ll see these interspersed with olive groves the further south you travel.

The landscapes change considerably in these parts, from agricultural land, steep cliffs and sheer ravines falling away into turquoise waters below. The food develops a Mediterranean feel to it as the cities edge closer and closer to Italy.

This itinerary covers what we did on a two-week itinerary in the south of France. These are our tips to make the most of these regions’ offers and are meant as a guide to help your French road trip planning.

Regions covered in the South of France road trip

Auvergne Rhône-Alpes

Separate regions before 2015 when the French administration merged many of the existing regions and departments, Auvergne brings the towns of the central-south whilst the Rhône-Alpes adds those from the south-eastern Alps area. Combined, it’s an area that is well known for outdoor adventures and sports, making the most of the mountainous landscapes.

Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur

In this region you’ll find the highly regarded area known collectively as Provence, influenced by the Mediterranean, home of many incredible national parks and outdoor adventure locations and the world-famous lavender fields. It is combined with the coastal areas that run along the French Riviera, brimming with visitors, celebrities and fancy cars, yachts and hotels.

South of France Itinerary summary

• Lyon
• Gap
• Sisteron
• Digne-les-Bains
• Gorges du Verdon
• Luberon Valley
• L’isle-sur-la-Sorgue
• Avignon
• Châteauneuf-du-Pape
• Mont Ventoux
• Valence

South of France Itinerary highlights

• World-famous lavender fields of Provence
• Spectacular natural landscapes; gorges, national parks, mountains, thermal springs
• A blend of large cities, mid-sized towns and small villages
• Home to some of the “prettiest villages in France” – Les Plus Beaux Villages de France
• Regional food like ratatouille, bouillabaisse and tapenade and the wines of the Rhône along with many local fresh food markets plus the gastronomic city Lyon
• Medieval architecture

Find and explore the traboules

Lyon is known for its traboules. Across the old town, a simple door can hide a secret passageway. Many of them run between several buildings, connecting them to streets, the river and other buildings.

These ancient thoroughfares were built to give the silk workers a path to the river, where the silk was transported to other locations.

If you know what you are looking for, you can identify the door by a bronze plaque that is placed nearby, usually providing you with some information about that particular traboule.

Some have open doors. Others have doors that are not. In this case, you need to know to press the button to open the door and let yourself in.

Residents of the buildings have an agreement with the local authorities to ensure the traboules always remain accessible. They must agree to keep the laneways clean and open to the public until 7 pm each night. In return, those who use the laneways must be respectful of the residents and their right to privacy and peace and quiet.

Each traboule is different. Some have exquisite balconies and others have unique pastel-coloured plasterwork. Gardens and courtyards can be a feature. Some are only within one building, whilst others run under four buildings panning an entire block.

Chill out in Place Bellecour

The largest pedestrian square in Europe is home to cafes, restaurants, buskers and a throng of people daily. Here visitors mix with locals on a work commute or simply moving from place to place.

Eat Lyonnaise food

Foodie or not, you can’t come to Lyon without having some kind of food experience. Chefs the world over suggest that Lyon is the culinary capital of the world, partly because Chef Paul Bocuse, a name synonymous with food in France, lived here.

Lyonnaise food culture sits at the heart of everything here. From the incredible Les Halles permanent market to fine dining restaurants and the traditional Bouchon, finding good food won’t be difficult here.

Traditional Lyonnaise cuisine comes with a few different flavours and different foods, not eaten often in many parts of the world. Andouillette sausages made with intestines, boudin noir (blood sausages), kidneys, Lyonnaise saucisson, quenelles (fish dumplings ) are just a few of this city’s specialities.

Gap

DEPARTMENT: Hautes-Alpes REGION: Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur

Gap is the next larger city as you leave Lyon to head further south through the Provence region. Gap is very close by the southern French Alps and as such, the mountains can be seen surrounding the city. It’s a city where the Mediterranean vibe is still highly visible, but you are left in no doubt that you are in the mountain country too.

Many of the things to do in Gap rely heavily on being in the outdoors, from hiking and walking to exploring the parklands.

In the city itself, visit the local markets if you can and take the time to explore the city streets. There are also several museums here.

Distance from Gap to Sisteron- 50.4 km (31.3 miles).

Sisteron

DEPARTMENT: Alpes-de-Haute-Provence REGION: Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur

It’s hard to know where to look as you approach Sisteron. Regardless of direction, your gaze will firstly be drawn to the citadel that sits on top of a seriously craggy mountain. The kind of mountains that define this area. In the shadows of the citadel is the village of Sisteron, their brightly coloured buildings pops of colour against the wall of mountain grey.

Cast your eyes down even further and you’ll be met with the turquoise waters of the Druance River.

Things to do in Sisteron

Sisteron Citadel

The citadel is the main reason to visit Sisteron. The citadel has seen its fair share of change since it was first built in the 12th-century. Some of the original architecture still exists along with additions from more modern times.

During the second world war, it was used by the Germans as a prison. The French government, then based in Vichy, did the same. The citadel was also impacted by bombings during the same war.

Visit the village centre

Sisteron is an easy town to walk. Take your time to explore the town full of wonderful medieval buildings and winding laneways.

Before you leave, be sure to find the town clock and the Notre Dame des Pommiers Cathedral (Sisteron Cathedral)

Pénitents des Mées

Not far from Sisteron, (22km south), Les Mees is worth pulling off the road for. The small town, an agricultural area with fruit orchards and olives, has its own unique claim to fame.

Behind the town, 100 metre high rocks have created quite a sensation.

Known as the Pénitents des Mées, they are steeped in folklore in these parts. Said to represent the monks who were turned into stone when they fell in love with some local women, each rock is hooded as the monks held their heads in shame.

Distance from Sisteron to Digne-les-Bains – 38.7 km (24 miles).

Digne-les-Bains

DEPARTMENT: Alpes-de-Haute-Provence REGION: Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur

We learned all about the dreaded French Mistral in Digne-les-Bains. As we jumped on our bikes, a must for any motorhome trip, the fierce, icy wind pushed at our backs.

The yellowish leaves of the plane trees shimmered almost silver as we were pushed about by it. We’d always been fortunate to miss this wicked wind that descends from the icy Alps and down into the Rhône Valley, onwards to the coast of the French Riviera. You certainly know you’re alive when this one blows into town.

Digne-les-Bains, or simply Digne, is known as a spa town in these parts. Nestled down between the convergence of three valleys, the mountains both protect it and provide a source of water.

Long associated with being a health resort, the waters coming from the mountains are said to have healing qualities.

Digne-les-Bains also provided the backdrop for the opening scenes in Victor Hugo’s Les Miserable.

Things to do in Digne-les-Bains

Digne-les-Bains isn’t packed with well-known tourist attractions, but there is still enough to keep you occupied for a while.

Learn about lavender

The town sits at the heart of the lavender producing area of Provence, affectionately known as the lavender capital.

Lavender is celebrated each August with a month dedicated to the strong- smelling flower that covers fields all across Provence. The first weekend of August sees their love of lavender celebrated at the festival Corso de la Lavande.

Towards the end of the month, Foire de la Lavande is a fair where you can find any kind of lavender product possible.

Explore the historic town centre

It’s easy to ride bikes or walk around the town centre. It’s small and flat. Visit Saint-Jérôme cathedral and the Gassendi Museum. A former hospital from the 16th-century, the building alone is worth the visit. Inside there are exhibitions of all kinds; modern artwork, 16th to 19th-century paintings and taxidermy.

For some time out, visit the Cordeliers Botanical Garden.

Gorges du Verdon

DEPARTMENT: Alpes-de-Haute-Provence REGION: Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur

From Castellane to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, the road of the Gorges du Verdon has you clinging to the edge for approximately 42 km. Winding through the mountains, sometimes even driving through them, it’s a ride that can be a little unsettling at times if you are a nervous passenger.

If you can get past the sheer drops that seem to appear out of nowhere beside your window, you’ll enjoy the stunning scenery that this area keeps on delivering at every turn.

Tip: If you are driving in a motorhome here, you’ll just need to be on your guard for drivers that don’t have as much respect for others as they should. Whether it be that they go too fast, or too close, a trip along the gorge usually comes with a smattering of close encounters and in a large vehicle, it can be a little trickier than a standard car.

Castellane, dominated by the enormous rock that sits over it, with a church perched right on the very top, is a lovely town to spend some time in. It’s also the starting point for many of the water sports like rafting.

Not far from Moustiers-Saint-Marie lies the largest artificial lake in France, Lac de Saint Croix.  It is spectacular, especially on a bright, sunny day. Its bright turquoise water, the result of the combination of glacial waters and rock minerals that are suspended in the water, shine even in the day time.

Things to do in Gorges du Verdon

This area is home to adrenalin based sports, with rafting, rock climbing and some serious hiking trails. In summer, this area is packed full of people trying their hand at one of these pastimes.

Make a stop at Point Sublime. Here you can walk to the edge of the mountain to score a dramatic view of the mountains and the deep ravine that carries the water into Lac St Croix. It’s also the point at which many hikes start from.

Distance from Moustiers (Gorges du Verdon) – Manosque (eastern end of Luberon Valley) 52.5 km (32.6 miles)
Distance from Manosque to Gordes – 62km (38.5 miles)

Luberon Valley

DEPARTMENT: Vaucluse & Alpes-de-Haute-Provence REGION: Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur

Spanning over 600 square kilometres, the Luberon Valley wraps up many of the things we love about France, all in one area. Throw a blanket over the top of the Luberon and you’ll pick up many glorious small towns.

As the hills of the valley rise up and down, small villages hug their highest points, spilling over the edge, making the landscape picture postcard perfect.

Other credentials lie in the fact that a number of them are also officially regarded as Les Plus Beaux Villages de France (the prettiest villages in France).

Once a sleepy area, the Luberon Valley was made eternally famous by author Peter Mayle and his love of Provence. His book, A Year in Provence kickstarted a love affair for visitors to this area.

These are some of our favourite towns but any drive through the valley will include so many more.

Lacoste

No visit to the Luberon is complete without strolling the cobbles of Lacoste. Starting at the bottom, work your way up the winding streets until you reach the top of the hill.

At the top of the hill sits the ruins of the Marquis de Sade’s château. Some of it was redeveloped by fashion designer Pierre Cardin, who now lives here. He also owns a sizeable portion of the village.

Cardin also uses this area for his art exhibitions like the one below.

Distance from Gordes to L’isle-sur-la-Sorgue – 18 km (11 miles)

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

DEPARTMENT: Vaucluse REGION: Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is known as the Venice of Provence, a term that is thrown around ubiquitously in France. Here, it refers to the small waterways that circumnavigate the small town, fed by the River Sorgue, and dotted with the waterwheels of a bygone era.

These wooden water wheels dated back to the early 1800s and were used to power mills and factories in this former industrial town. Silk and wool weaving factories also used the water source.

These days, the factories no longer reside here. Instead, L’isle-sur-la-Sorgue is a well-known player in the antique market. Large barns line the entrance to the town, but look closely and you will find many small dealers here too.

Each weekend, the town comes alive as the antique markets open up with more than 300 vendors selling their wares. Twice a year, at Easter and in August, the international antique fair brings in people from all over the world.

Things to do in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

Église Notre-Dame-des-Anges

Antique Villages

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is divided into “villages” of antiques. With over 300 antique dealers and many more sellers of second-hand goods and bric-a-brac, visitors come to this town specifically to buy. It is the largest location of antiques in France outside of Paris.

Sunday markets

With the town already bursting at the seams come the weekend the Sunday market pushes it into overflow. Vendors line Quai Jean Jaurès, the main street of town. It’s one of the most scenic spots you’ll encounter for a market, with the River Sorgue bubbling away alongside the road.

Here you’ll find many fresh food vendors. Fish, vegetables, fruit, pastries and fabulous French bread are intertwined with flea market oddities, handmade soaps and straw shopping baskets. The market also spreads into the streets behind and in front of the cathedral.

During the first week of August each year, the river plays a different role, hosting the floating market.

Nego Chins

In the main waterways of the town, you will see many flat-bottomed boats, not dissimilar to the punts you might have seen in the United Kingdom. The Nego Chin has been purposely designed to be able to manoeuvre in areas of shallow water. They have historically been used for hunting and fishing.

In town, you can catch a ride on one to take you from one part of town, or one side of the river, to another. Alternatively, watch for fishermen giving displays during the weekend, the floating market or various festivals and races that occur during the year.

Things to do near L’isle-sur-la-Sorgue

Partage des Eaux

Located about 1.5 km from the centre of L’isle -sur-la-Sorgue is the Partage des Eaux, a large area of water with a leafy green backdrop of plane trees. The same trees are prolific throughout the town also. It is here that the River Sorgue is divided into two sections running in different directions.

It is said that the Sorgue maintains a constant temperature of 13° Celsius, making it a hive of activity during the hot summer months. Even on the hottest day, 13° is way too cold for me.

Fontaine de Vaucluse

8.6km along the D24 takes you to Fontaine de Vaucluse and the commencement of the River Sorgue. This tiny town, seemingly hidden away, with a population of around 600, sees visitors thronging to it each summer.

The emerald green waters that originate from the rainwater and melted snow from surrounding mountains swirl around this town, creating a feeling of peace and tranquillity. Fontaine de Vaucluse is the only location where this underground network of rivers come to the surface and can be seen.

This area, where visitors walk and swim, is flanked by the plane trees that sway in the breeze overhead. It’s a beautiful place to come to chill out, particularly when the weather is warm.

The water source here is one of the most powerful in the country, with over 630 million cubic metres making its way to other areas each year.

It’s a little bit touristic here with souvenir shops lining the pathway down to the waterhole, but that’s not a reason not to visit. It’s truly a beautiful town.

Bishops of Cavaillon castle

On a rocky outcrop perched above the village, the Bishops of Cavaillon castle, also known as Château des Evêques de Cavaillon can be seen. Built in the 12th-century they are now ruins.

To visit the ruins and to get an incredible view of the area, take the stairs near the Museum and Library Petrarca. The stairs do turn into a rather steep, unsurfaced pathway so it is not recommended for visitors who require more accessible walking tracks.

The Galas Aqueduct Bridge

We love aqueducts, so you can imagine our delight at seeing one in this region. The Galas Aqueduct was constructed as part of the Carpentras Canal, built in 1853 as part of the irrigation infrastructure for the area, drawing its water from the Durance River.

Distance from L’isle-sur-la-Sorgue to Avignon – 32.4 km (20 miles).

Avignon

DEPARTMENT: Vaucluse REGION: Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur

Avignon is one of those French towns that you can just keep coming back to. It’s easy to get to it and simple to navigate. Personally, I also think Avignon receives a bit of a raw deal from many who seem keen to miss it altogether, or to think of it as more of a base for trips to other parts of Provence.

The attraction for us starts at its walls. Once a completely walled city, its ramparts are still highly visible, wrapping this beautiful city in its arms.

During the 14th-century, Avignon became the home of the Popes, who resided here outside Rome until the late 1370s. Much of the city is dedicated to and celebrates this history.

Things to do in Avignon

Pont Saint-Bénézet

Commonly known as the Pont D’Avignon, this bridge was once the only place that the Rhône River could be crossed. It was also part of the path the pilgrims travelled from Italy through to France.

Originally spanning almost 1200 metres long, the bridge, finished in 1185 had 22 arches. But, it had its share of drama. The bridge was heavily damaged during a siege in 1226, leaving only a small portion of it remaining. Surprisingly, the chapel on the bridge remained intact and locals later rebuilt the bridge.

The bridge was destroyed once again in the early 1600s when floods and constant water pressure wiped out some of the arches. Today only four arches and the Chapel of Saint Nicholas remain.

For a different perspective, go across the river to the park L’ile De Barthelasse. Alternatively, for a higher view, head up to the Rocher des Doms in the centre of the city.

Need to know: Tickets must be purchased to gain access to the bridge and chapel. Buy a ticket to both the bridge and the Palais des Papes to secure a discount. Access to the bridge is available for visitors with disabilities.

Palais des Papes

The Pope’s Palace commands your attention once inside the walls. It should also command your presence inside. As the largest Gothic palace constructed in medieval times, it’s a brilliant place to visit to get an understanding of the influence the Catholic Popes had on this city and its surrounds.

Not being a massive fan of museums and organised tours, here you can do it independently and interact with many of the rooms, features and exhibits with the aid of technology.

Town Square

Whether it’s taking a stroll across the cobbled square, people watching or having a coffee, take some time just to get involved in what is going on. It’s a hive of activity with locals and visitors blending here in the rich mosaic of daily life.

L’ile De Barthelasse

Many years ago, we stayed overnight in our motorhome at a great campground on this small island in the middle of the Rhône.

Pedestrian and vehicle access is possible via the Pont Édouard Daladier. There is also a free river ferry that goes back and forth across the river. Catch the ferry at Quai Joël Bameule, near the Pont D’Avignon.

Visit the Manguin Distillery to try some eau-de-vie (essential for making Cognac) and regional favourite pastis.

Explore the streets within the walls

Avignon is perfect for just taking your time and meandering through the cobbled streets that project out from the main town square. You can’t get lost in Avignon so make the most of a few hours to explore. The inner parts are also pedestrianised, making for a safe and hassle-free place to walk.

Note: When the river cruises are operating, Avignon, as one of the major ports on these journeys, can become quite crowded as guests try to make the most of their few hours onshore.

Climb to the top of Rocher des Doms

With plentiful trees and places to sit on the grassy hill, enjoy a picnic with fresh food you can buy at the local Les Halles market. Grab a bottle of champagne and take in the view, or simply watch the animal life hop in and around the fountains.

Enjoy a light meal or drink at the cafe and watch the world go by. As the highest point in Avignon, it’s also the best spot for a view across the river, towards Villeneuve-lès-Avignon or to Mont Ventoux in the north-east.

There are several options for access to the gardens. Walk up the steps near the cathedral, the Sainte-Anne steps or from the river.

Visit the Les Halles market

One of our favourites in France, this food market follows a typically French architecture style, used in many of its markets. Industrial looking, it permanently houses the best fresh produce and food vendors in the region.

You’ll find plenty of things to buy here for your picnic by the river or in the Rocher des Doms. Or, if you’re like us on a road trip, stock up the onboard fridge for our eating pleasure.

If you are looking for a bite to eat, there are many places within the market where you can eat and drink.

Museums of Avignon

The Musée du Petit Palais has a collection of medieval art, whilst the Musée Angladon will keep you enthralled with archaeological exhibits and the work of Picasso, Cézanne and Van Gogh.

Even better, many of the museums in the city are free.

Things to do in Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Castle

Built for Pope John XXII, this castle is a shell of what it would have been when built in the early 1300s. The majority of the castle was destroyed, like many significant buildings in France, during World War Two.

Visit here to walk around the ruins and get a spectacular view of the valley below.

Mont Ventoux

Mont Ventoux can be added into any part of your trip once you get down into the Luberon area. You can deviate from the Luberon itself, make a day trip from L’isle-sur-la-Sorgue, or venture east on your return back to Lyon. If you have the time and enjoy the driving, fit in a visit to the highest mountain in Provence.

At 1912 metres above sea level, on a good day, Mont Ventoux offers one of the best views across the region. It’s also a great drive with views possible along the way.

The roads leading to the summit are excellent, but you will need to be mindful of cyclists. Crazy as you might think they are, there is no better achievement for many bike aficionados than to reach the top under pedal power.

Often part of the Tour de France course, hardcore cyclists, many either emanating their tour de France heroes or wanting to be one, use Mont Ventoux as a training ride.

As I watch them from the comfort of my comfy motorhome, I take my hat off to them. What incredible stamina.

As the road takes you higher, the pine forest trees thin out and the landscape becomes more barren, not unlike some of the scenery I’ve seen in Iceland. There is less vegetation as the limestone rock face shows itself. I can totally imagine this mountain top being covered in snow.

We couldn’t believe the number of people at the top. It was so lively. I guess if you’d cycled 1912m you’d have plenty to celebrate.

There is a great sweet shop up here and a few other market stalls. There’s also a cafe where you can grab a coffee, or in our case, a tasty cold beer to sit back and enjoy the view.

Note: You can also do a trip to Mont Ventoux from L’isle-sur-la-Sorgue

Distance from Mont Ventoux to Valence – 158 km (98 miles).

Valence

DEPARTMENT: Drôme REGION: Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes

Valence is a small city which depending on your timing can be a longer stop or merely a stopover point before making your way back to Lyon.

Distance from Mont Ventoux to Valence – 104 km (64.6 miles).

How long should you spend in southern France

Notwithstanding additional driving to and from other locations, the total distance for this itinerary is approximately 900 km (560 miles). The distances from Lyon to Gap and Valence to Lyon are the largest. All other stops in between require relatively short driving times.

If you drive fast and don’t spend much time in these towns, this trip is easy in seven days or less. We recommend spending at least 10-14 days in this area to do it justice.

Tips for travelling in southern France

Take it slowly. These regions are some of the most beautiful in France and you should take the time to savour it. Stop on the side of the road to pick an apple from a wild tree, or pick some lavender growing on the kerbside. Stop in at the small villages, spend your money locally, and see everything these areas have on offer.

Unless you are in a hurry, stay off the toll roads and take the D roads.

The BAC level in France is 0.05. Don’t drink and drive.

English is spoken in all the big cities but less so in the small village. Try your hand at speaking some French, or use a phrasebook if necessary.

People who haven’t driven motorhomes will always say you can’t drive them in these regions. If that were the case, no one would ever drive one anywhere in France. Whilst smaller rental cars make things easy, if you are driving large motorhomes, just park them on the outskirts of the larger towns.  We recommend having bikes or e-bikes to get around on.

Make sure whatever vehicle you are driving has a sound GPS system, or you have data access for your phone (maps), or offline maps downloaded. Or you can go old school and have driving maps.

More reading: Here’s our guide to driving tips in France.

Best time to visit southern France

Winter is perfect for skiing and outdoor winter sports in the alps regions. It’s also a much quieter time, with fewer visitors. This means accommodation will be less expensive, queues will be shorter and you’ll get more places to yourselves more often. On the flip side, the weather isn’t as good as it is in summer or the shoulder months, some places will be closed and campsites might not be open.

We’ve always travelled here in Spring. It’s still t-shirts and shorts weather, but towards the end, there’s a crispness in the air. Beware the Mistral though. It loves to blow in Spring. There are fewer people than in summer, but everything is still open and able to be accessed. The shoulder season of Autumn is similar.

Summer is the premier time to visit, but it comes with some downsides. The weather is brilliant, Mediterranean style with the sun shining most days, although the heat can be stifling and thunderstorms are possible. August is when the French take their annual holidays so this adds to the hordes of visitors making their way to the south of France.

Everything is more crowded, more expensive and booking in advance is necessary for many areas to avoid disappointment or issues.